The Guernsey

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The authors' Guernsey - 21 years old and still going strong.

As Danish autumn progresses and the howling winds that are an ever present feature of life in this country get colder one's thoughts inevitably turn to the subject of insulation. This leads me nicely on to the guernsey.

The knitting industry in the British Channel Island of Guernsey dates back to the early 16th century, when licences were granted to import wool from England. In those early days, the Island’s exports were stockings and at the peak of this trade it is believed that 10,000 pairs left the Island each week. Both Mary and Queen Elizabeth (1558 to 1603) owned articles of Guernsey knitwear. Even the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots wore Guernsey underpinnings at her execution.

If it doesn't have one of these sewn in to the seam it's not the genuine article.

The Guernsey sweater came into being as a garment for seamen & fishermen. Venturing in some cases as far as Newfoundland, they required a warm, hard wearing, yet comfortable item of clothing that would resist the sea spray.

So was born the now famous oiled wool Guernsey. During the time of the Napoleonic Wars, Admiral Lord Nelson recommended that the Guernsey be worn by the Royal Navy and it was at this time that the Guernsey, which until then had been knitted in unscoured natural wool, was dyed Navy Blue. Variants of the guernsey, known as a "gansey", are today used from Cornwall to Scotland.

Traditional Guernsey knitwear still functions as a cottage industry, produced using age old techniques that have been tried and tested. They are knitted with close stitches from tightly twisted worsted wool and this gives it its ability to withstand sea spray and rain. The result is a strong, long lasting garment that will hold its shape better in both wear and washing. (Though I prefer to dry clean mine.)

Beautiful cuff detailing

The rib at the top of the sleeve represents a sailing ship’s rope ladder, the raised shoulder seam a rope and the garter stitch panel, waves breaking on the shore. These details used to differ from family to family - it helped identify sailors lost at sea.

Traditionally passed down within families or given as presents I received mine from my grandmother, a Jersey islander, when I was 16. Bought large for me to grow in to, my guernsey is sized 40 inch chest.

They are meant to be worn skin tight to make the most of the their insulating properties & mine fits more like a rather snug 38". 

There really isn't much 'give' in that tightly worn worsted! Some suggest sizing up a full 4 inches, though I feel strongly they should be worn as intended.

Under arm gusset for ease of movement

Ditto the split hem

The Guernsey is a working jumper - the under arm gussets and split hem provide ease of movement despite the snug fit.

My jumper has had a hard life, years ago I used it whilst working as a labourer during the Christmas holidays and various other menial student jobs. However, with a few running repairs it is still serving me well and will for years to come.

A few patch repairs over the years are testament to this garments working life and durability

Beware of imitations made elsewhere from inferior wool - for a guernsey to qualify as such it has to have been made on the island from the correct worsted wool to the traditional pattern. A kosher example will set you back approx £70 / 650DKK.

I have no idea where my grandmother found mine all those years ago, but I can suggest these chaps as a starting point. More on jumpers to follow soon.