When people think of quality selvedge denim what
automatically pops in to the mind is Japan or the USA.
However, there’s some great things coming out of
places like Indonesia. One such label is Oldblue Co.
Can a Man Have Too Many Jackets?
Founded
in 2010, Oldblue Co. is, perhaps unsurprisingly, inspired by work wear of the
late 1800's to the 1950's. The label take a lot of their styling from Levi’s
Vintage Clothing (LVC.)
I’d
been on the look out for a duck canvas jacket for a while so when I saw this
one I knew it had to be part of my collection. I must admit here that I own far too much denim... I couldn't justify buying more of the indigo stuff, so duck canvas seemed like a good compromise.
An Alternative to Levi's
As
with the LVC original, the first jacket the company ever made in 1878, the key features of the garment are characterized by the
triple pleats front and back with box stitching, round bottom pockets (with no
arcuates) and a cinch back. The waistband has a little tilt on it, so shorter in
length at the back than the front.
Old
Blue added their own details to the jacket. The front pockets are larger and
they’ve added a hidden pocket on the left chest. All the seams are felled for
added strength. There’s black selvedge line detailing on the hang loop and down
the centre seam.
The
cut is also more like a modern jacket, longer than the original vintage blouse,
cut to sit on the hips.
You Want Duck?
For
fabric Oldblue Co. use an 11oz brown duck selvedge. (It says 12oz on the label and 11oz other site, I suspect the former is the post wash weight.)
The duck fabric is produced by Cone Mills, their famous vintage shuttle looms using single continuous threads to produce a tighter, heavier and more durable fabric. (The same mill where the bulk of LVC’s fabric is produced.)
The duck fabric is produced by Cone Mills, their famous vintage shuttle looms using single continuous threads to produce a tighter, heavier and more durable fabric. (The same mill where the bulk of LVC’s fabric is produced.)
This
duck fabric starts out quite rigid and gets heavier after it’s first soak
For
the hardware Old Blue have used Japanese made 100% copper washers - burr rivets
and silver "Laurel Leaf" iron plated doughnut buttons. The
custom-made brass cinch back hardware is made in Indonesia, and given an
antique copper finish.
The
leather patch is a bison hide imported from its origin, USA. According to Old
Blue it varies in thickness, 3-4 oz on average, or 1.4 – 1.6 mm. Genuine
American bison leather is more than 40% stronger than the traditional cowhide
and known for its strength and durability. Compared to the cowhide, bison
leather grain is more pronounced, and the fibers are also thicker.
The fabric sanforised, however after a first soak there's just under a centimetre of shrinkage on the sleeves and the jacket in now nice and snug across the chest.
So, the verdict? This is great little jacket and very well made. I hope labels like this grow and thrive to make the denim industry, or the selvedge part of it at least, a more diverse place.
The jacket is available from Oldblue Co. here.
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