Shop Review - A Small Jeans Company

Carsten outside ASJC HQ.

Some of the more high end denim stores, complete with standard issue hipster scowling at you from behind a counter, can feel a little unwelcoming when you go in.

Not so Copenhagen's newest denim shop A Small Jeans Company (ASJC). Tempted by the offer of coffee and obligatory Danish pastries I met up with owner Carsten Frederiksen for an interview.

ASJC is a very personal project for Carsten. As its name suggests ASJC want to keep things, well, small. His background however is working in sales for large brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Tiger of Sweden in the more formal tradition of gents' tailoring. As Carsten admits though,

"It makes no sense for a denim-head, but when working with formal wear I started realizing that clothes go way deeper. Suddenly I found myself much more drawn to denim. Most end-consumers know that tailoring, the combining of fabrics and fits, is a sort of science. The same counts for denim in general. But what really triggered it was longevity. In this case denim beats formal wear any day. Personally I prefer a mix of denim and formal wear. Add a leather jacket and I'm a happy guy"

Indigo, Craftsmanship, Stories

Talking to Carsten it's clear he applies formal tailoring's high standards to what he stocks at ASJC, yet this as much as his relaxed attitude informs what he wants to achieve with the shop,

"We have no ambition of becoming a big jeans company or getting rich and famous. We focus on providing good, long-lasting stuff for customers. We prefer products before branding. When I opened up I thought well known commercial brands were important. Luckily they are not. The end-consumer has become much more aware of what they're buying. Therefore we focus on production, country of origin, fabrics and brand DNA." 

 This means brands such as Tellason, Pace Jeans, Tanner Goods and Lewis Leathers take precedence over more commercial fodder. ASJC's motto is Indigo, Craftsmanship, Stories. The provenance and quality of a garment is more important than than the branding it carries - perhaps a surprising approach for a shop only a stones throw form Copenhagen's main shopping drag Stroget.

To his credit Carsten is not interested in compromising on the quality of what ASJC stocks,

"Quality denim is for me a solid and clean product in every detail. With this I mean what is the purpose of making a fantastic heavy ounce denim then putting in cheap buttons or compromising on pocket lining or rivets? In general I prefer American or Japanese raw denim made with a clean look. Tellason is a good example. Even if you are not into denim you can see that things have been thought heavily about."   

Starting any new business is hard and mistakes are easy to make. Despite the shop's central location traffic flow has been one of ASJC's biggest challenges,

"Copenhagen is a big city and knowledge (of us) is still small. We are growing every day and becoming more settled. Customers come back and that is a good thing!" 

Carsten is candid about the initial difficulty getting the mix of brands right, but argues the shop will benefit from it in the long run,

"A Small Jeans Company will only get better and more interesting for denim orientated guys."

A Small Passion

Despite these challenges, after working for the big boys A Small Jeans Company represents a refreshing change, with Carsten's motivation stemming from doing something he genuinely loves,

"I'm doing this now and hopefully for the rest of my life. I have had good jobs and been happy about them but this career choice is by far the best decision made."

So what brand is he most proud of? Carsten acts as an agent for the Swedish brand Pace Jeans, so they're perhaps not a surprising choice. However, I get the sense he means it,

"I love the way their denim are ages and they don't compromise on quality. The philosophy of keeping pace and moving on is fantastic. On a bad day I would prefer a less visible stitching on back pockets. But that's how it is with visual branding I guess. At the moment the PX-04 from Pace is keeping my legs warm."

With regard to breaking his own jeans in Carsten doesn't have any special routines, preferring to simply break his jeans in from dry,

"for me it's all about getting them on and when they don't work anymore it's time for a change. For customers I recommend they have patience and simply just wear them whatever they are doing. I think it is up to the single person if they want to rub their dirty hands in them, work in the garage or garden - or even wash them (always inside out) because they have an office job. I think the journey starts when they buy a pair of dry jeans and they will find out what works for them."

Carsten brings a life-long passion for clothing to ASJC, and it seems to be working for him,

"My motivation definetly comes from doing what I really love and am passionate about. I am doing this now and hopefully for the rest of my life. I have had good jobs and been happy about them, but this career choice is by far the best decision made. It is hard, but I love riding my bike to the store in the mornings and developing the business. Furthermore Copenhagen Center needs this kind of shop. Period!"

Copenhagen shops are not known for friendly customer service, so this attitude is good news for Danish denim-heads. As Carsten says,

"I don’t expect for people to be blown away but if they don’t find it relaxed and feel welcome for shopping or hanging out - then I am doing something wrong. "

There's normally always a pot of coffee on and regular beer evenings, so if you're after some new denim why not pop for a chat?
If you can't make it the web-shop will be up and running very soon. Check out ASJC here.

Pace Jeans - Sawtooth Denim Shirt.

An American inspired gem.

Wonderfully soft 7.5oz denim and great detailing = a shirt win.

No denim head's wardrobe is complete with out a denim shirt or two. As ever, there are a huge number on offer that vary widely in quality and detailing.

Those looking for an accurate heritage workwear example could do no better than look at Pace Jeans. Founded by Swede, Klas Erixon, in 2003, they're defined by love of all things Americana and a commendably obsessive attention to detail. Though commercial pressure has meant Pace recently adding more contemporary lines to their range, the brand has traditionally focused on high quality workwear.

Satisfyingly long tails.

Cut in a western style, the shirt is made from 7.5oz pre washed denim, produced in Italy.

In addition to the quality of the fabric, what sets this shirt apart for me is the beautiful detailing. The Pace arcuate, stitched here on the sawtooth pockets, and replicated again on the yoke, is inspired by the lines of a 1955 Ford.

Arcuate detail on front pocket.

The pocket, cuff and placket popper buttons are all pearlescent black. Key for me is that, unlike most contemporary shirts, it has generously cut tails. Meant to be worn tucked in, the long tails would stay tucked as workmen went about their daily chores.

Beatiful black pearlescent buttons.

I spoke to Pace's man in Denmark, Carsten Lund Frederiksen of A Small Jeans Company, earlier this week. Asked to summarise what Pace do he said simply, "for them everything is black & white, they're not interested in compromise."

Such is all we should ever look for in our clothes. The concept of authenticity gets bandied about too much in the heritage fashion world. It is perhaps better to solely focus on quality, and in this regard Pace seem to have got it right.

Pace also produce some wonderful dry selvedge bottoms. Milled in Osaka, Japan, they are all fashioned from a satisfyingly heavy 13.75oz denim. I particularly like the PX-03 cinch backs - on which more soon.

In the meantime, if you like the look of the shirt why not pop in to see Carsten at A Small Jeans Company. In addition to a shop packed full of quality denim & leather he has beer and coffee!

As yet Pace don't have a UK agent, but don't despair, if you're not in Scandinavia or Germany you can get your paws on their denim here.