SUN/SET/STAR - BIG JOHN COLLABORATION - THE JAPANTHER WAISTCOAT

What happens when Austrias’ premier denim shop collaborate with Japan’s oldest label, Big John? Answer: something quite special - the "BIG JOHN X SUN/SET/STAR Japanther Collaboration Waistcoat."

I caught up with Steve from SUN/SET/STAR to find out more.

It all started when Kiyo from Big John visited the guys to introduce the A/W 13 collection. The fit is taken from the herringbone waistcoat in this collection. As Steve says, 

“It was love from the first sight: the fit, the workmanship, simply something we were searching for quite some time.”

 

And it proved popular with customers too, so much so that the guys asked if Big John were doing something similar for the next season, but alas not. Keen to produce something anyway they discussed collaboration; things went from there.

Surge Hunters

The fabric is called 'Grandrelle Navy Stripe Serge' based on 1920's work wear material 'Salt & Pepper', it's 100% cotton and woven in Japan. Serge was also used in military uniforms and is a particularly robust fabric, yet this waistcoat has a wonderfully soft feel to it. Worn over a henley in the coming warmer months it’ll look fantastic. As Steve puts it, the fabric is an “an all-season one, elegant but durable.”

As you’d expect the detailing is spot on. The buttons are made-in-japan silver plated brass. I love pocket flaps on a waistcoat, it just looks right and adds to the period feel, however the flaps can be hidden in the pockets for a cleaner appearance if that’s your thing. My favourite flourish is the extra slanted button hole for one’s watch chain – a period touch you don’t often see these days.

Best of both worlds 

The grey inner lining is hand stamped with the "Japanther Collaboration" emblem representing the cross-town collaboration of Graz and Kurashiki; featuring the coat-of-arms of both cities: This explains the name of the collab: JAPAN (Made in Japan) + PANTHER (coat-of-arms of the guys' hometown) = JAPANTHER.

The woven label is also hand stamped with the emblem. So, are there plans for more collaborations in the future? “It might not be the last piece we create together…but there are no plans yet! We’ll keep you updated!”

On to a Good Thing

In a previous interview with Denimhunters Steve and Gerry argued the long-term goal of SUN/SET/STAR is to become an institution for “good things” – well this waistcoat is certainly that. Strictly limited to run of 40 pieces – hand numbered – there are still a few sizes left, so get in there quick.

A chap can never have too many waistcoats and something this special is certainly worth adding to the collection. If you’re tempted have a look here.

Heller's Cafe Larry McKaughan Interview - Heritage Fashion Done Right.

As if more proof were needed that there’s great denim coming out of Japan Warehouse label Heller’s Café have further cemented their reputation with the new collection.

I caught up Heller’s Café founder, the “King of Vintage” Larry McKaughan to find out more.

Heller’s Café have released four new fits – ranging from the cinch-back 1920’s cut of the Lot 1 to the skinny contemporary silhouette of the Lot 4. All fits are also available in washed form – on which more later.

The full line up, from left to right Lots 1 to 4.

All 4 jeans are cut from sanforized 12oz denim. The fabric itself is alive with slubby character and has a wonderfully rough feel in the hand – something Warehouse have lovingly reproduced through tweaking the chatter on their looms.

A Question of Detailing 

As you’d expect from these guys this attention to detail extends to the fabrication – the standout thing for me is the single needle stitching throughout. A nice touch too is the felled outer leg seam, giving a single visible selvedge edge – a very period detail seen on vintage work-wear, the felled seam made for a much stronger garment.

 On Lots 1 & 2 there is also a riveted crotch panel. Across the range is the one-piece selvedge edge fly – again a period detail seen on many vintage trousers. The scalloped back pockets are a nice touch and they’re also lined with the same cotton used for the front pocket bags. The light yellow patch is deer skin and I’m sure it will age beautifully.

Detailing done right! Selvedge one piece fly, crotch rivets and beautiful scalloped pockets.

The collection may wear its vintage detailing on it’s sleeve, but as a whole it still has a very modern feel. As Larry explains,

“My inspiration behind Heller’s Cafe collections has to do with what I sense is exciting for the market—not only the vintage market, but new as well.  I look for what I find unusual and exciting in our collection and I temper that with what I think might be interesting or appealing for the new clothing market.”

So this translates in garments that have had the fits tweaked slightly to make them more modern, for example my favourites in the collection, the Lot 1’s, whilst sporting a slightly higher rise at the back and a cinch, have a much slimmer cut than the 1920’s period jeans that inspired them.

To Wash or Not?

The washed version of the Lot 1 fit.

This idea also partly inspires the washed versions of the jeans. I normally like to keep things raw here at New Utility but this is very much Larry’s way of experimenting with the Heller’s Café range to replicate the details of some of the pieces in his vintage collection. 

As the man himself puts it, Larry wants to imbue “some of the feeling to the new pieces that the vintage pieces have and to add life to them.” The detailing on the washed fits even extends to heavily oxidizing the rivets and buttons. Whether you’re a fan of denim aging or not for me it is this dedication to perfecting the smallest detail that has always separated most Japanese labels like Warehouse from the others.

A Brand Apart 

The Lot 3's in action. (Jacket courtesy of Universal Works. Cap by Hepville.)

With so many heritage brands focusing on work wear, what is it that sets Heller's Cafe apart? With Heller’s Café that’s easy to answer – Larry has dedicated his career to finding the best, most unusual and rare pieces in the world.  The HC collections are based on those samples and offer a line of clothing that is based entirely on authentic design from actual pieces in Larry’s collection.  As he argues “we commit ourselves to recreating that feeling.  No other line of clothing has the experience in vintage and know how with production to do what we have done.”

As you’d expect from the King of Vintage Larry has struck this balance perfectly with the new collection – giving us beautiful jeans with the all the period detail that vintage buffs like me love, without falling in to heritage fashion trap of just producing costume.

Yours truly modelling my favourite pair in the new collection - the cinch-backed Lot 2's with a vintage '49 Pattern battledress blouse. 

So what’s next for Heller’s Café & Warehouse? Larry wanted to keep future projects under his hat but did say that his anticipation is Heller’s Cafe will become a permanent part of the Warehouse brand and that HC “will occupy a part of the brand that continues to offer the most unique and exclusive designs to the vintage lover and collector.” Excitingly Larry is also looking forward to opening more stand alone Heller’s Cafe stores as well as “continuing to offer our product through other venues and expand.”

As a European based denimhead Japanese denim in general can be hard to get hold of so this is good news.

Check out the collection here.

A big thank-you to Larry McKaughan, Masiki Fujiki & Keita Senzaki at Ebbets for all their help and time.
Denim cap by Hepville Custom Clothing. Denim jacket by Universal Works.

Words and photography ©Mark Larner.

Resurrecting Old Metal - All For The Love Of Pancakes

....In this case an old frying pan.

My neighbour, Peniila, was having a bit of a clear out in the half-loft (a sort of hobbit height box room tucked off the staircase between the floors of our building.)

She emerged stooped over and brandishing a very rusty DeBuyer 22cm steel crepe pan, ready to chuck it in to a box destined for the dump.

DeBuyer are a French concern that have been producing quality cookware since 1830. Thrifty as we are here at New Utility it seemed a bit of a shame not to have a bash at restoring it.

One heavy duty scourer, a lot of elbow grease and twenty minutes later I'd worked off almost all the surface rust. The metal actually looked quite good, with only a little minor pitting.

I had some wet & dry sand paper to hand so I worked over the remaining spots of rust with that, dug out the Brasso and gave the thing a quick polish up and a wash. Done.

For the sake of approx 40 mins work it makes sense to try and save things like this, giving them a second life that will last for years to come.

It was Shrove Tuesday this week in the UK , so the perfect time to knock up some pancakes!

Chaps Can Bake Too: Chocolate Chip & Cinnamon Christmas Cookies

Well, it's that time of year again. We're on the cusp of Christmas Eve and, to be honest, I am about as full of Yule-tide cheer as a hungover Scrooge.

However, baking always restores morale a little, nothing more so than cookies. I took a batch I made recently to a birthday party packed to the rafters with hoards of Icelandic children and the cookies were polished off within a couple of hours.

This recipe is easy - the cookies take all of 15 minutes to prepare, and, served with the morning coffee, they're also an easy way to impress the female in your life.

Here in Scandinavia they love baking with cinnamon and use it in just about everything. For me, the smell of cinnamon cookies wafting through the house is just lovely. Feel free to experiment though - this recipe works just as well with cardamon and a few rum soaked raisins.

You'll need to assemble the following:

• 125g unsalted butter.
• 150g flour.
• 1/2 tsp baking powder.
• 100g golden caster sugar.
• 75g demerara sugar.
• 2 tsp vanilla extract.
• 1 egg, beaten.
• 2 tbs porridge oats.
• 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon.
• pinch, sea salt.
• 100g dark chocolate, broken in to small chucks.

Proceed as follows:

• Pre heat oven to 190 degrees.
• Melt the butter in a small saucepan.
• Meanwhile mix the 2 sugars in a bowl and pour in the melted butter.
• Beat in the egg, cinnamon and vanilla.
• Sift in the flour and baking powder.
• Add the salt, oats & chocolate and thoroughly stir the whole lot. You should by now have a fairly loose mixture.
• Evenly space pudding-spoon sized dollops on a paper lined baking tray. (They'll spread out a fair bit during cooking.)
• Cook for 8-10 minutes until the cookies turn golden brown
• Remove from oven and leave to firm up for a couple of minutes before carefully transferring them to a wire rack to cool.

Perfect with a mug of mulled wine. Skål! And a merry Christmas to you all!

Bulldog Spirit - SJC Denim Kickstarter Successful

Last month Denimhunters' Matt Wilson introduced us to the SJC Denim Kickstarter campaign. Well, here's an exciting update  - with 9 days left to go designer Simon James Cathcart's project is already funded, so if you want a pair of these jeans you'd best get in there quick.

To re-cap for those of you that missed it, Simon has designed a heritage collection embracing differing styles and youth cultures throughout the last century. There are several historically accurate fits in the jeans line up - ranging from the Big B Dungaree, a 1920's style chino, to the slim cut 1980's Punk jean.

Two fits in particular have proved popular - the Brakeman, a high waisted 1930's style cinch back jean and the Big B Dungaree.

The Brakeman - easily the best jean in the collection.

So popular in fact that people have wanted to order both pairs, so Simon now has that purchase option up and running on the site.

Excitingly Simon has also now added a bespoke option, so for those guys whose dimensions are not exactly standard you can get any of the fits cut to your size.

The Yard Boss jacket looks particularly good, with period correct details like a cinch, patch pockets and pleats.

For the lady denim-head in your life Simon has also taken the brave step of making a women's jean and jacket - the Bad Kitty. So no longer will your vintage minded other half have to endure mass produced skinny stretch nonsense.

Yard Boss Jacket - moustache and motorbike optional!

Uncompromising Detailing

All fits are made from either 120z or 16 oz ringspun Kaihara denim, one washed for minimal shrinkage. The hardware and detailing is impressive too - the vintage patina buttons are YKK, the thread is 1080 gold, as close to the early 20th century as Simon could match. 

The pocket bags,  printed with the SJC logo and chain stitched to the waistband, are super heavy 12oz selvedge - double stitched so they won't blow out. The back pockets are fully lined in the same material, and have covered rivets.

The upper inner block is finished with red scalloping because, as Simon puts it,"the guys had a 1920's machine and well f*@k it.. it looks sensational."

One of the last things to finish off is a brass stamp so the jerky leather patch is embossed.

With delivery scheduled for January 2015 production is about to go in to full swing.

Bulldog Spirit

I get the impression that the SJC project is very personal to Simon and it's very much in the artisan spirit. 

As Denimhunters' resident vintage buff it always excites me to see a designer do something like this - producing a collection that emphasises uncompromised vintage fits over mere commercial appeal. And, incase you haven't spotted the British bulldog patch yet, it's coming out of the UK. You still have a few days to get involved here.

The Yard Boss Jean

Tackling a Heavyweight - Pike Brothers 19oz 1948 Roamers A Year On

I've finally buckled... after almost a year of near constant wear my Pike Brothers 48' Roamers are starting to hum a little. So, they’ve had their first wash.

A nicely broken in leather patch.

Since getting them last December I’ve worn them as much as possible, switching only to a lighter pair of LVC 505’s or my 11oz 37’ Roamers for the hottest days of the summer.

I gave the jeans a pre wear soak for shrinkage and to get the starch out of the fabric, but that’s it.

At 19oz this beautiful Kurabo denim took a fair bit of breaking in. Even tackling the button fly was a battle of wills in the beginning. The jeans almost wore me for a while…

Fresh out the box this time last year.

One year in. One soak, one wash and developing well.

But it’s been worth it. The jeans have gradually softened up - I’ve got some lovely whiskers around the pockets, and my wallet pocket is just starting to show signs of wear. Clearly when breaking in heavy-weight denim you're in for the long haul.

Whiskering around the pockets.

Now, Pike Brothers suggest that you don’t wash these babies at all, instead favouring a dry clean.

Other hardcore denim heads might raise an eyebrow at simply bunging them in the washing machine with a bit of detergent but that’s exactly what I’ve done. Turn ‘em inside out, put them in a cold wash and hang them damp. Done.

Denim this beautiful deserves to be looked after and I simply don’t see how dousing it in chemicals at the dry cleaners will help the longevity of Kurabo’s finest fabric.

Just starting to develop some fraying around the cuffs.

If other items in your wardrobe are dirty, you wash them, right? As Denimhunters' Matt Wilson argued in his recent article on washing denim it makes no sense to spend serious amounts of wedge on premium denim to then not look after it.

I love seeing how selvedge denim evolves as much as the next denim head, but not at the expense of smelling like a bath-shy farm hand.

Coin pocket detail.

The 48’ Roamers are tough jeans. If, like me, you like your jeans old school then the classic fit is spot on and denim is evolving wonderfully. They are hands down my go to pair and will doubtless serve me for a long time to come.

For more details my earlier full review is well worth a read. If you’d like to get your hands on a pair check out Pike Brothers here. 
If you're thinking of tackling a pair of these beauties now is the perfect time of year to start.

Those of you lucky enough to be in Munich can also visit the Pike Brothers pop-up store until December - details here.