US Army 5 Button Pullover

An Original Dead-stock Military Sweater

I wonder what else Carthage Knitwear made?

As regular readers will know I love my knitwear. Spring is still some way off, but I recently began searching for something a little lighter than my North Sea Clothing Intrepid for the coming months.

My researches led me to the 5 Button US Army sweater. Military they may be, but they look fantastic, particularly the buttoned placket front. The olive drab is almost a light brown and works well with both denim and tweed.

The 5 button placket front in all its glory.

A Bit of History

First issued in 1942, these jumpers replaced the earlier roll neck sweaters as part of a much needed overhaul in American Army clothing, most of which had been found unequal to the rigours of operations in Europe. 

Out went the heavy wool combined service & combat uniforms of WW1, in came Herringbone Twill (HBT) and the very modern idea of a layered combat uniform.*

Something was still needed to help keep troops snug in winter - this is where the 5 button jumper came in. Made of pure wool, it is however not a particularly heavy gauge knit - perfect for layering over / under shirts or jackets.

These look like the original Bakelite buttons.

Several places on the web sell these jumpers, but I was led back to Jerry at WPG, as he still has a few of the original items left.

This one dates from 1st December 1950, and is in such good condition I doubt it was actually issued. As with most military kit these sweaters were made by various contractors, here by Carthage Knitwear Corps. (I tried to find out more on them but to no avail, has anyone come across them before?)

In fit these jumpers are quite snug - a medium coming close to a 36" chest, and, reflecting the higher waistlines of the period, they're not cut particularly long.

Ribbed cuffs and hem - a heavy duty pullover, despite a slightly light gauge knit.

WPG do also make repro versions - I've not seen them but it would be interesting to see how they compare.

If you're interested you can buy one here.

Slightly rough button hole stitching perhaps, but it is 64 years old..

*Woolen Jeep Coats and Great Coats were still widely worn on winter combat operations however. Kit would have been issued until stocks were depleted, obsolete or not. Such was the clothing shortage in the ETO that GI's would sport whatever they could get hold of.

British Inspired... American Made: WPG Edwardian Ammo Boots.

Work boots seem to be very popular at the moment.

However, they vary considerably from the cheap rubber soled horrors pedalled by the likes of H&M to undiscerning hipsters, to the beautiful heritage range crafted by Red Wing - fantastic boots that will set you back a minimum of £200/ DKK 1800. 

I'd been after a suitable pair of boots for a while, however a bit of Google research led me to What Price Glory - an American concern that specialise in reproduction military clothing. These Ammo Boots are a true utility option. They were worn from roughly 1900 to 1960; a black version is still worn by troops on public duties today.

Very sturdily made from pebble grained brown leather, with heal & toe irons with thick leather laces, these boots seem indestructible.

I've worn them now for a month and they are softening up nicely. After a couple of polishes the boots have developed a pleasing reddish tan hue. The sizing comes up a bit large, I'm normally an 8 1/2 but an 8 (American size 9) fits me perfectly. These will easily see me through the rigours of several Danish winters to come.

You do have the option of ordering hobnails too, though you'll need to tack those in yourself. If you don't want to sound like you're marching on Berlin the toe and heel irons are easily removed, though I find them very useful in getting situationally unaware Danes and tourists out of the way when battling through Copenhagen crowds. Keeping them on will of course also mean less visits to the cobbler for re soling/healing.

You can order these boots for $95 online here.