Red Wing Heritage 8113 Iron Ranger Roughout Boots

Heritage fashion aficionados will be familiar with venerable American boot makers Red Wing. (So much so that they're almost a compulsory part of the denim-head uniform!)

Founded in 1905 by Charles Beckman, and named after its Minnesota hometown, the company has been producing robust work boots and shoes ever since.

The two world wars saw them supplying boots to the military and post WWII, much like denim, Red Wing boots made the jump from utility wear, becoming popular with Levi's clad baby-boomers.

Today this tradition continues with Red Wing Heritage. Established in 2008 the collection draws inspiration from the company's considerable history.

Each boot is hand sewn at the factory using high quality ox leather form a local tannery, S.B Foot Tanning Company (owned by Red Wing since the 1980s.)

The 8113 is a tough boot inspired by the original miners, nicknamed "iron rangers", that wore them. They sport classic 6” styling with a double layer leather, toe cap, a leather heel pocket and a cork sole Featuring premium Hawthorne Muleskinner leather, chrome hardware, speed hooks, Goodyear welt construction and robust triple stitching on the seams.

Beautiful triple stitching.

We might not work in such difficult conditions today, but the original work boots worn into the iron mines had to be as tough. The Iron Ranger boots were built with a double layer of leather over the toe to provide the miners an extra measure of safety. The heel pocket, a boot feature designed to provide extra support, was moved to the outside of the boot. This design change eliminated a seam, and provided a smooth and comfortable one-piece surface on the inside of the boot.


Roughout leather is used in shoes with the outer, smooth grain side and inner, fluffed, fresh sides reversed. 
"When used in outdoor environments ordinary shoes with the grain side outside tend to sustain damage to the leather surface. Roughout keeps the grain side undamaged even in harsh conditions. Roughout represents an efficient way of using leather with functional features equivalent, if not superior, to those of regular leather."

Red Wing has been making use of roughout leather since the late 1950s.

Roughouts - so the smooth side of the hide is on the inside.

I picked my pair up last week so they're pretty box fresh. I've been warned that Red Wings take a bit of breaking in and after a few days of wear I can attest to that - though I'm assured they do soften up.

The vintage pair I saw in the London Red Wing store looked great, if a little too battered! There seems to be a trend amongst some in the heritage fashion crowd to deliberately age or abuse their boots.

No me. At £239 a pop I'm going to look after them as I would any pair of good boots. They'll be worn hard, as boots like this should be, but that's no reason to neglect them.

With thanks to the Red Wing store in London for all their help. If you fancy a pair you can pop in to the shop in Newburgh Street, London or check out their website.

British Inspired... American Made: WPG Edwardian Ammo Boots.

Work boots seem to be very popular at the moment.

However, they vary considerably from the cheap rubber soled horrors pedalled by the likes of H&M to undiscerning hipsters, to the beautiful heritage range crafted by Red Wing - fantastic boots that will set you back a minimum of £200/ DKK 1800. 

I'd been after a suitable pair of boots for a while, however a bit of Google research led me to What Price Glory - an American concern that specialise in reproduction military clothing. These Ammo Boots are a true utility option. They were worn from roughly 1900 to 1960; a black version is still worn by troops on public duties today.

Very sturdily made from pebble grained brown leather, with heal & toe irons with thick leather laces, these boots seem indestructible.

I've worn them now for a month and they are softening up nicely. After a couple of polishes the boots have developed a pleasing reddish tan hue. The sizing comes up a bit large, I'm normally an 8 1/2 but an 8 (American size 9) fits me perfectly. These will easily see me through the rigours of several Danish winters to come.

You do have the option of ordering hobnails too, though you'll need to tack those in yourself. If you don't want to sound like you're marching on Berlin the toe and heel irons are easily removed, though I find them very useful in getting situationally unaware Danes and tourists out of the way when battling through Copenhagen crowds. Keeping them on will of course also mean less visits to the cobbler for re soling/healing.

You can order these boots for $95 online here.