Jungle Heritage: The Pike Brothers 1952 Lowkinawa Boot

The 1952 Pike Brothers Lowkinawa Boots have their origin in the jungles of South East Asia.

US forces in WWII had problems with their issue footwear going rotten in the Pacific Island jungles, several attempts were made to produce a boot capable of surviving the climate, but none were particularly successful. So, soon after the War it was decided to properly develop and trial boots for hot and humid environments. 

This was the fist real attempt at a jungle boot.

Early advisors to Vietnam were often based out of Japan, and these particular boots were first tested in Okinawa, hence the original name: Okinawa Boots. 

The originals were exactly the same as the double buckle leather boots issued to American troops WWII, but with part of the upper in canvas. Good luck finding a pair though, they are as rare as rocking horse sh*t!

An original pair.

Luckily Pike Brothers stepped in and have made their own version: much shorter than the original, dispensing with the double buckle, they've named it the Lowkinawa. 

The upper boot is a mix of cowhide and canvas. Construction is a durable Goodyear welt with an outdoor sole.

It's a stylish and comfortable boot, the cowhide is beautiful and sturdy, however, the canvas ensures that the boot remains nice and light.

In short, it's a boot that wears it's military heritage proudly, but won't make you look as if you're about to retake the Solomon Islands single handed.

For those of us that wear boots year round the Lowkinawa is a great option for Spring & Summer. I can't wait to see how these break in.

Check them out here.

(Pix courtesy of Pike Brothers & Saunders Militaria.)

Your New Winter Boots - The Chippewa Homestead

Born in the USA

For me there is something about tan leather and denim that works seamlessly, and I love a work-wear inspired boot. 

So, when I was offered the chance to review a pair of Chippewas for work the Homestead Boot in Copper Caprice grain leather was a natural choice.

Founded in 1901, the American brand Chippewa started out producing rugged work boots – a rich tradition they have kept very much alive in their Original Collection – one characterised by, to quote the press blurb, 

“a blend of modern durability found in contemporary outdoor products combined with the heritage and authenticity of American craftsmanship and work ethic. The Collection is an assembly of vintage-inspired footwear for individuals who appreciate classic boots with a distinctive identity.”

These boots were made for walkin'...

Fresh out the box a few months ago.

As you'd expect from any heritage collection quality and craftsmanship are key - all the Original Collection boots are Goodyear welted, hand crafted in the USA using quality hides.

Well, to the Homesteads. The light tan grained leather has pleasingly soft texture to it, and unlike my Red Wings, the boots were comfortable straight out the box, requiring only minimal breaking in. No blisters for me, I'm pleased to report.

The cushioned insole is a nice touch, the heel being maple leather, the rest something called texon. (I have no idea..)

As befits what is technically a work boot there is a reinforcing steel shank. Yet, the boots do not feel too clunky.

After a few months of regular wear the boots are now moulded perfectly to my feet.

Starting to age nicely.

Booty call

The detailing is stylish too – the unbleached cotton stitching across the toe-cap and round the outsole looks great. The 3 brass speed hooks at the top of the boots and waxed laces mean they’re easy to get your feet in and out of – important in Danish homes where forgetting to remove your footwear results in much social awkwardness.

The sizing comes up a little large, but I prefer to wear thick socks with my boots. 

The Vibram V-Bar sole does have some grip – whether that’s up to the rigours of a Scandinavian winter remains to be seen, though I’m sure they’ll be perfect around town. (For the woods we all have our hiking boots, right?)

Absolutely love the stitching on these boots..

You've got sole

The Homestead boot might wear its heritage on its sleeve, however, whilst the construction is undoubtedly robust, the boots are not overly heavy. They could easily be used for a pair of ‘best’. So, if you’re looking for a quality light winter boot the Homestead is for you.

As well as style the key thing for me comfort - and these babies are so comfortable I’m sure they’ll be keeping my feet nice and toasty throughout the winter. 
With this collection Chippewa set out to combine timeless silhouettes with modern style, and with the Homestead I'd argue they've succeeded.

Call me cynical, but when you add the tag 'original or 'heritage' the price normally takes a massive hike north.
The good news is that Chippewa have a considerably lower price point that the likes of Viberg & Red Wing - being owned by Justin Brands, one of the largest bookmakers in the U.S, means that Chippewa, for the Original Collection at least, are able to keep production in-house and remain competitive without the normal quality fall off you'd expect from a mainstream brand.

More stitching porn..

A pair of Homesteads will set you back approx $260. (By way of comparison I paid that in GBP for my Red Wings. I find myself in the Chippewa's more..)

If tan leather is not quite to your taste the boot is also available in several other finishes. Well worth a look too are their Service and Engineer Boots. Check them out here.

Red Wing Heritage 8113 Iron Ranger Roughout Boots

Heritage fashion aficionados will be familiar with venerable American boot makers Red Wing. (So much so that they're almost a compulsory part of the denim-head uniform!)

Founded in 1905 by Charles Beckman, and named after its Minnesota hometown, the company has been producing robust work boots and shoes ever since.

The two world wars saw them supplying boots to the military and post WWII, much like denim, Red Wing boots made the jump from utility wear, becoming popular with Levi's clad baby-boomers.

Today this tradition continues with Red Wing Heritage. Established in 2008 the collection draws inspiration from the company's considerable history.

Each boot is hand sewn at the factory using high quality ox leather form a local tannery, S.B Foot Tanning Company (owned by Red Wing since the 1980s.)

The 8113 is a tough boot inspired by the original miners, nicknamed "iron rangers", that wore them. They sport classic 6” styling with a double layer leather, toe cap, a leather heel pocket and a cork sole Featuring premium Hawthorne Muleskinner leather, chrome hardware, speed hooks, Goodyear welt construction and robust triple stitching on the seams.

Beautiful triple stitching.

We might not work in such difficult conditions today, but the original work boots worn into the iron mines had to be as tough. The Iron Ranger boots were built with a double layer of leather over the toe to provide the miners an extra measure of safety. The heel pocket, a boot feature designed to provide extra support, was moved to the outside of the boot. This design change eliminated a seam, and provided a smooth and comfortable one-piece surface on the inside of the boot.


Roughout leather is used in shoes with the outer, smooth grain side and inner, fluffed, fresh sides reversed. 
"When used in outdoor environments ordinary shoes with the grain side outside tend to sustain damage to the leather surface. Roughout keeps the grain side undamaged even in harsh conditions. Roughout represents an efficient way of using leather with functional features equivalent, if not superior, to those of regular leather."

Red Wing has been making use of roughout leather since the late 1950s.

Roughouts - so the smooth side of the hide is on the inside.

I picked my pair up last week so they're pretty box fresh. I've been warned that Red Wings take a bit of breaking in and after a few days of wear I can attest to that - though I'm assured they do soften up.

The vintage pair I saw in the London Red Wing store looked great, if a little too battered! There seems to be a trend amongst some in the heritage fashion crowd to deliberately age or abuse their boots.

No me. At £239 a pop I'm going to look after them as I would any pair of good boots. They'll be worn hard, as boots like this should be, but that's no reason to neglect them.

With thanks to the Red Wing store in London for all their help. If you fancy a pair you can pop in to the shop in Newburgh Street, London or check out their website.