Red Wing Heritage 8113 Iron Ranger Roughout Boots

Heritage fashion aficionados will be familiar with venerable American boot makers Red Wing. (So much so that they're almost a compulsory part of the denim-head uniform!)

Founded in 1905 by Charles Beckman, and named after its Minnesota hometown, the company has been producing robust work boots and shoes ever since.

The two world wars saw them supplying boots to the military and post WWII, much like denim, Red Wing boots made the jump from utility wear, becoming popular with Levi's clad baby-boomers.

Today this tradition continues with Red Wing Heritage. Established in 2008 the collection draws inspiration from the company's considerable history.

Each boot is hand sewn at the factory using high quality ox leather form a local tannery, S.B Foot Tanning Company (owned by Red Wing since the 1980s.)

The 8113 is a tough boot inspired by the original miners, nicknamed "iron rangers", that wore them. They sport classic 6” styling with a double layer leather, toe cap, a leather heel pocket and a cork sole Featuring premium Hawthorne Muleskinner leather, chrome hardware, speed hooks, Goodyear welt construction and robust triple stitching on the seams.

Beautiful triple stitching.

We might not work in such difficult conditions today, but the original work boots worn into the iron mines had to be as tough. The Iron Ranger boots were built with a double layer of leather over the toe to provide the miners an extra measure of safety. The heel pocket, a boot feature designed to provide extra support, was moved to the outside of the boot. This design change eliminated a seam, and provided a smooth and comfortable one-piece surface on the inside of the boot.


Roughout leather is used in shoes with the outer, smooth grain side and inner, fluffed, fresh sides reversed. 
"When used in outdoor environments ordinary shoes with the grain side outside tend to sustain damage to the leather surface. Roughout keeps the grain side undamaged even in harsh conditions. Roughout represents an efficient way of using leather with functional features equivalent, if not superior, to those of regular leather."

Red Wing has been making use of roughout leather since the late 1950s.

Roughouts - so the smooth side of the hide is on the inside.

I picked my pair up last week so they're pretty box fresh. I've been warned that Red Wings take a bit of breaking in and after a few days of wear I can attest to that - though I'm assured they do soften up.

The vintage pair I saw in the London Red Wing store looked great, if a little too battered! There seems to be a trend amongst some in the heritage fashion crowd to deliberately age or abuse their boots.

No me. At £239 a pop I'm going to look after them as I would any pair of good boots. They'll be worn hard, as boots like this should be, but that's no reason to neglect them.

With thanks to the Red Wing store in London for all their help. If you fancy a pair you can pop in to the shop in Newburgh Street, London or check out their website.