Buzz Rickson 1942 HBT Trousers

Summer is here.. even in England. A good thing,  however my trusty 19oz Pike Brothers jeans are getting a my legs a little too toasty. I do have lighter denim, but to give me a break from indigo I began looking for something different.

Herringbone Twill (HBT) is just as rugged as denim. So much so that the material was widely used by WW2 era militaries for their uniforms.

Introduced by the Americans in 1941 to replace denim working dress, US HBT uniforms are still widely reproduced - today the best by far are the stitch-for-stitch recreations offered by Buzz Rickson's. 

So, for me, they were the natural place to start for an alternative to denim. Buzz Rickson's produce HBT trousers in several different patterns. I opted for the US Army 1942 version.

Made from high quality, military spec HBT, Rickson's argue that they feel and wear like a wartime original.

Buzz Rickson's don't appear to have the '42 pattern on their site any more. However, they now do a '41 US Marine Corps (USMC) version.

The '42 Army pattern differs in that obviously they don't sport the USMC logo on the back pocket, have army buttons and a natural white twill lined waist band. Rather than utilitarian patch pockets they sport smarter sash pockets - including a coin pocket.

So they don't feel too military - useful if you don't want to look like you're about single-handedly re-take Guadalcanal.

Confusingly these trousers, in cut and detailing, are exactly like the first 1941 pattern that gradually replaced pre-war denim fatigues, so I'm not sure why they're billed by Rickson's as 1942.

There were several shades of Olive Drab (OD) used over the years, and these are in the early war lighter sage green shade.

In any case, several patterns were worn widely until the end of the war - soldiers just sported what they were issued by the QM. So, unless you're a geeky re-enactor and get het up about such things, you need not worry.

As with several other items of military clothing their rugged utility, mixed with a pinch of nostalgia, give them an enduring stylishness that transcends the garment's original function as a working uniform. Simply put, for chaps seeking an excellently made vintage inspired pair of trousers, these are for you.

I found mine from Burg & Schild in Berlin, one of the city's best shops for quality denim and heritage menswear - and they still have a few pairs left. I urge you to go and visit these guys if you're in town, however if you can't make it the trousers are available online here.

(With thanks to Thomas at Burg & Schild for all the help. Pix ©Burg & Schild.)

British Inspired... American Made: WPG Edwardian Ammo Boots.

Work boots seem to be very popular at the moment.

However, they vary considerably from the cheap rubber soled horrors pedalled by the likes of H&M to undiscerning hipsters, to the beautiful heritage range crafted by Red Wing - fantastic boots that will set you back a minimum of £200/ DKK 1800. 

I'd been after a suitable pair of boots for a while, however a bit of Google research led me to What Price Glory - an American concern that specialise in reproduction military clothing. These Ammo Boots are a true utility option. They were worn from roughly 1900 to 1960; a black version is still worn by troops on public duties today.

Very sturdily made from pebble grained brown leather, with heal & toe irons with thick leather laces, these boots seem indestructible.

I've worn them now for a month and they are softening up nicely. After a couple of polishes the boots have developed a pleasing reddish tan hue. The sizing comes up a bit large, I'm normally an 8 1/2 but an 8 (American size 9) fits me perfectly. These will easily see me through the rigours of several Danish winters to come.

You do have the option of ordering hobnails too, though you'll need to tack those in yourself. If you don't want to sound like you're marching on Berlin the toe and heel irons are easily removed, though I find them very useful in getting situationally unaware Danes and tourists out of the way when battling through Copenhagen crowds. Keeping them on will of course also mean less visits to the cobbler for re soling/healing.

You can order these boots for $95 online here.