The Perfect Hat For (British) Summer - A Silk Gatsby

Regular readers will know that I have something of an obsession for bakers boy caps.

I have them in both tweed and cotton weights, but have been after something lighter for the summer. What better to fend off the endless rain in England?

Popular from roughly 1890 to 1930 the Bakers Boy was worn not only by boys but working men across Europe and America.

In fact that were so popular they hurdled the class divide to be worn my wealthy motorists and sportsman as a casual alternative to the more formal headwear of the day.

Rightly these caps have seen something of a resurgence in popularity in recent years. A relative of the flat cap, what distinguishes the Bakers Boy is that, unlike its cousin, the cap is divided in to eight panels, with a button on the crown. In cut the cap is also much rounder and fuller.

Enter one of my favourite gents hatters - Bates in Jermyn Street have been there since 1898. Sadly in 2009 it looked as if Bates would cease trading due to their historic  21A Jermyn Street premises facing redevelopment. Thankfully the famous shirt makers Hilditch & Key  stepped up to the rescue, giving Bates a part of their shop at No. 73.

So, it seemed the natural place to go for a new titfer. I was immediately taken with a light grey herringbone silk Baker's Boy or Gatsby.

I found one of the last caps from their old collection - cut much more generously than the newer versions, the cap has an authentic 1920's feel to it, but nearly 100 years later this type of cap is just as functional and stylish as it ever was. They do still have a few of the old pattern left.

If you're interested have a look here.

Buzz Rickson 1942 HBT Trousers

Summer is here.. even in England. A good thing,  however my trusty 19oz Pike Brothers jeans are getting a my legs a little too toasty. I do have lighter denim, but to give me a break from indigo I began looking for something different.

Herringbone Twill (HBT) is just as rugged as denim. So much so that the material was widely used by WW2 era militaries for their uniforms.

Introduced by the Americans in 1941 to replace denim working dress, US HBT uniforms are still widely reproduced - today the best by far are the stitch-for-stitch recreations offered by Buzz Rickson's. 

So, for me, they were the natural place to start for an alternative to denim. Buzz Rickson's produce HBT trousers in several different patterns. I opted for the US Army 1942 version.

Made from high quality, military spec HBT, Rickson's argue that they feel and wear like a wartime original.

Buzz Rickson's don't appear to have the '42 pattern on their site any more. However, they now do a '41 US Marine Corps (USMC) version.

The '42 Army pattern differs in that obviously they don't sport the USMC logo on the back pocket, have army buttons and a natural white twill lined waist band. Rather than utilitarian patch pockets they sport smarter sash pockets - including a coin pocket.

So they don't feel too military - useful if you don't want to look like you're about single-handedly re-take Guadalcanal.

Confusingly these trousers, in cut and detailing, are exactly like the first 1941 pattern that gradually replaced pre-war denim fatigues, so I'm not sure why they're billed by Rickson's as 1942.

There were several shades of Olive Drab (OD) used over the years, and these are in the early war lighter sage green shade.

In any case, several patterns were worn widely until the end of the war - soldiers just sported what they were issued by the QM. So, unless you're a geeky re-enactor and get het up about such things, you need not worry.

As with several other items of military clothing their rugged utility, mixed with a pinch of nostalgia, give them an enduring stylishness that transcends the garment's original function as a working uniform. Simply put, for chaps seeking an excellently made vintage inspired pair of trousers, these are for you.

I found mine from Burg & Schild in Berlin, one of the city's best shops for quality denim and heritage menswear - and they still have a few pairs left. I urge you to go and visit these guys if you're in town, however if you can't make it the trousers are available online here.

(With thanks to Thomas at Burg & Schild for all the help. Pix ©Burg & Schild.)